We woke up to the most stunning and peaceful view we could ever imagine. Despite being next to the main road, the parking area, usually just a resting point, provided us with the quietest night. Not a single car disturbed our sleep, and we were pleasantly surprised to find clean toilets and washbasins for brushing our teeth.

📍 Kusatsu Onsen

As mentioned in my previous post, Kusatsu Onsen is one of Japan's best hot spring resorts. After an amazing evening exploring Yubatake and wandering the streets filled with happy and relaxed people, it was now time to discover the town in the daylight.

Our first stop was Netsunoyu. We purchased our tickets at 9am since the first performance was scheduled for 9.30am, and we wanted to secure the best seats to watch it. And indeed, we did, and We were absolutely thrilled about it!

📍 netsunoyu

Nestled in front of Yubatake, the main source of Kusatsu Onsen's renowned hot spring water, Netsunoyu stands as an elegant two-story bathhouse with glass windows.

Originally constructed in 1968 and renovated in 2015, it offers a unique glimpse into the traditional method of cooling onsen water.

The water temperature at Kusatsu's source spring exceeds 51 degrees Celsius, too hot for direct bathing. To lower the temperature without diluting the water's mineral content, locals have employed the centuries-old practice of yumomi.

This rhythmic performance, accompanied by traditional folk songs, involves stirring the water with large wooden paddles. Netsunoyu hosts six yumomi performances daily, each lasting around 30 minutes, providing visitors with an immersive experience steeped in history and culture.

address: 414 Kusatsu, Kusatsu, Agatsuma District, Gunma 377-1711
Hours: 9.30am, 10am, 10.30am, 3.30pm, 4pm, and 4.30pm.
fees: adults: ¥700 - kids: free
reservations are not needed

📍 lunch at Yugawa Terrasse

As we walked around the town, we stumbled upon Yugawa Terrace, a hotel restaurant with a charming terrace where we can enjoy our meal with our feet soaking in an ashiyu (a footbath filled with natural hot spring water)!!

Excited to try this unique dining experience, I was willing to wait more than 30 minutes to secure one of the two tables outside. And it was worth every minute!

Though the meal was a bit pricey, the food was simply amazing. We treated ourselves to a local beer, a plate of four sushi with delicious Wagyu beef, and a bowl of hand-made thick noodles, all for about ¥3,000.

It was a special treat, and we had a wonderful and relaxing time there, leaving with happy hearts and full bellies.

📍 a stroll in town

● Our first stop was to try what would soon become the best kushidango I had ever tasted. it was simply delicious, generously portioned, and perfectly cooked for only ¥500 !

A kushidango is a delightful sweet treat made from small skewered rice dumplings crafted by steaming, pounding, and smoothing non-glutinous rice, often sourced from Hokkaido. These delectable dumplings come in three delicious flavors: Mitarashi soy sauce, a sweet and sticky soy sauce; sesame sauce, made from ground sesame seeds with added sugar; or anko, a sweet paste made from red beans simmered until tender.

● and then, It's possible we might have tried out all the ashiyu in town !!

● These days, you can easily find runny onsen tamago in most supermarkets, but nothing quite compares to enjoying it at an actual hot spring.

Onsen tamago is like traditional sous-vide cooking: the hot spring's temperature is just right for cooking an egg to perfection, with a barely-set white and a warm, velvety yolk. After the eggs have been in the onsen for the perfect amount of time, they're served up — whether solo in a bowl, creating a silky treat, or nestled atop some local soba — making for a truly satisfying and authentic experience for just ¥100 !

● To wrap up our afternoon, we were excited to check out the West Riverside Public Open Bath. It sounded like a blast!

Since parking was a bit of a challenge, we decided to take a leisurely 15-minute stroll through town, enjoying the scenery along the way. When we arrived, we found lots of footbaths surrounded by trees, and people just chilling and soaking up the warmth.

But when we saw how crowded the onsen was and realised there were no showers, we decided to skip it this time. Instead, we hung out by the steamy river for about an hour.

Our daughter had a blast making up stories and throwing rocks into the water.

a happy little girl by the steamy west riverside of kusatsu onsen

And hey, we couldn't resist dipping into our fifth footbath of the day. Yep, we were loving every minute of it !

📍 dinner at Kusatsu Yubatake Manten

To round off our day at Kusatsu Onsen, we decided to dine at Kusatsu Yubatake Manten restaurant. We initially tried to go for lunch, but there was a long line of 25 people ahead of us. So, we gave it another shot for dinner and managed to snag the second spot in line for the 5 pm opening. Once inside, we were immediately charmed by the cozy atmosphere and delighted by the delicious food.

Ordering was a breeze thanks to the QR code menu accessible on our phones, complete with English translations and mouthwatering pictures. Plus, they even provided complimentary prawn crackers, included in the small service charge per person.

With so many tempting options on the menu, we might have gone a bit overboard with our order, resulting in a ¥6,000 bill — way more than we typically spend. Nevertheless, it was a lovely indulgence in a warm and welcoming setting. We definitely recommend this restaurant.

We absolutely adored our 24-hour adventure in Kusatsu Onsen and can't wait to return. Next time, we're planning to fully immerse ourselves in the experience by booking a ryokan for the night and spending the day in yukata for ultimate relaxation.

Our journey continued with a 3-hour drive, avoiding a 1-hour mountain road that wasn't recommended unfortunately. But hey, we were on vacation, so it was all part of the adventure!

With our daughter peacefully snoozing in the back seat, still feeling the relaxation from our time in Kusatsu, we eagerly anticipated reaching our next stop: the even more wonderful free campsite that avaited us at Shubu Onsen.