Van Life Chronicles: Heading back to Tokyo「Day 6&7: Fujiyoshida」
The cold of the snowy Fujisan made the air feel way more crispier than in gifu. It was too chilly to sleep alone in the pop-up tent, so my two companions and I snuggled up in the van, creating a cozy cocoon against the 5-degree temperature.
In the morning, we were greeted by a stunning view. The sun's rays pierced through the fiery red maple trees, casting a warm glow. The ground was adorned with vibrant green moss, and the only sounds were the soft landing of falling leaves.
For a morning walk, we explored the forest surrounding the parking area, encountering a pleasant surprise – the same deer family we had seen the night before. They moved gracefully in their natural habitat, and I chose to savor the moment without reaching for my camera, opting to preserve the magic of the encounter in my memory.
📍 24 hours in fujiyoshida, away from the crowds
We geared up and made our way to this great, free parking spot at the foot of the Chureito Pagoda shrine. No surprises – there were loads of people around, but since we'd already been to the pagoda earlier that year, we decided to take it easy and just amble through the charming streets of Fujiyoshida, steering clear of the crowds.
If you're curious about what else you can do in Fujiyoshida, we've got a whole article dedicated to it, capturing the vibe of the town before it got flooded with visitors back in April 2023.
Now, let me take you on a laid-back stroll through the quiet corners of the town:
📍 Omuro Sengen Shrine
Fuji Omuro-Sengen Shrine, established in 699 A.D., is the oldest among the 1000 Fuji Sengen Shrines in Japan, dedicated to Mount Fuji's Shinto deity, Princess Konohanasakuya. Originally at Mount Fuji's 2nd Station, it relocated in 958 A.D. to the current site for accessibility.
The shrine, with historical ties to the Takeda clan, holds valuable writings and statues, surviving destruction from Fuji eruptions. In spring, the site blossoms with 200 cherry trees, hosting a vibrant festival on April 25th.
Notably, Fuji Omuro-Sengen Shrine is renowned for yabusame (horseback archery), performed since 940 A.D., celebrated annually during Golden Week on April 29th.
📍 A Stroll through the 60s
Immersing ourselves in a district seemingly frozen in the 1960s, the street lamps and houses exude a nostalgic allure reminiscent of classic Japanese movie sets.
The enduring charm of mid-century architecture unfolds as we leisurely navigate charming alleys, offering a timeless experience. Against the backdrop of Mount Fuji, the neighborhood unfolds with delightful shops, charming cafes, and inviting udon eateries, the local specialty.
The true joy lies in unhurried explorations, peeks into local gems, and meandering through vintage lanes.
📍 Kitaguchi Hongu Fuji Sengen Jinja
Nestled in a dense cedar forest, Kitaguchi Hongu Fuji Sengen Jinja, also known as Sengen Jinja, is an Asama shrine also dedicated to Mount Fuji's deity, Konohanasakuya-hime.
Historically, pilgrims embarked on their Mount Fuji journey from this shrine, distinct from the modern 5th station start. The serene ambiance captivates visitors along the stone lantern-lined path leading to an impressive torii gate. The site features fiery red buildings and three ancient sacred trees, each over 1,000 years old.
Inside, sumptuous mikoshi, carrying deities' souls, are displayed, one adorned with a vermilion Fujisan. Annually, the Yoshida no Himatsuri festival, held between August 26 and 27, honors Konohanasakuya-hime with three-meter torches illuminating Fujiyoshida's main street, creating a captivating citywide bonfire.
📍 final clap
That night, we continued our "escaping the crowds" mode. We ventured out of town for a simple, family-friendly chain restaurant, opting for the quick and affordable "Nakau." Later, we headed to our beloved old-fashioned, family-managed onsen, "Yoshinoike Onsen," and returned to our quiet parking spot near Yamanaka Lake. Just like the previous night, with the temperature dropping to 5 degrees, the three of us snuggled up in the van, feeling warm and cozy. We cherished our last night, falling asleep with a bit of nostalgia as our road trip was coming to an end the following morning.
We woke up around 8 am, packed our belongings, and transformed the van back to its original appearance as a 4-seater car. It truly felt like the end, so we didn't talk too much. We took a final look at the surrounding trees, thanking them for such welcoming nights.
Before leaving, we had a discussion. The choice was between 5 hours of free national beautiful roads or 2 hours on the highway to get home sooner. Since we had already taken the first option on the national road two days before, we eventually chose the highway and headed straight away. After driving for an hour, we stopped at a parking area to enjoy our breakfast and a nice, hot coffee.
Then, one hour later, we were back at the van rental. —wrong!!! ahah.
The GPS stopped working under Tokyo's central tunnel, I missed the exit, and had no other choice but to continue and cross Tokyo all the way until the last exit at the extreme north of the city. It tested our nerves, and it took me 2 hours to cross Tokyo again to leave the van. Then followed an hour of commuting to head the other way to our flat, followed by a 10-minute walk with all our belongings. We can laugh about it now, but this was not the mood I was anticipating on our way back home, maybe a bit influenced by the fact that we didn't want the holidays to be over?
As I am typing my last words today to end this chapter of our van life chronicles in Gifu, I have two months later still beautiful and enchanted memories of red maples, steamy rivers, birds twittering, horses, dogs, and cats begging for a cuddle, wonderful people we met along the way, great food we ate, incredible and so relaxing onsen, the dead leaves dancing in the wind, the smiles and laughs of my husband and daughter, the nights under the stars, and above all, the omnipresent silence in the greatness of Gifu's mountains…
So, to keep this burning fire of discovery alive, I am now planning our next destination. Could you guess where that would be?...